Characterization of the effect of fabric structure on the optical properties of woven fabrics

摘要： Purpose – This paper aims to study the optical properties of woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach – The current study was carried out to objectively evaluate the luster of a group of woven fabrics with different weave structures and weft densities, with the aid of a goniophotometer. The results obtained from the objective luster measurement were validated by a set of pair comparison subjective tests using Thurstone’s law of comparative judgment. Findings – The proper correlation with the R2 value of more than 0.96, between subjective and objective tests, confirmed the reliability and accordance of objective results with the human perception of luster. Statistical analysis of the luster results clarified that the effect of fabric structural parameters such as weave structure and weft density are significant at the confidence range of 95 per cent. The highest luster index was achieved for the twill 3/1 weave structure and the lowest luster belonged to the plain pattern. In addition, an increase in the density of the fabric leads to better luster. Moreover, it was concluded that the surface roughness affects the luster. A rise in the roughness value of the woven fabric causes reduction in its luster property. Originality/value – Optical properties of woven fabrics, which are mainly attributed through the measurement of luster, are important for qualifying the aesthetic characteristics of the fabrics with various weave structures. Bearing in mind the influence of fabric surface properties on the aesthetic features of cloths, obtaining information in this field is a guide for selecting the suitable fabric for various end uses.